Aready thinking of next year

Speaking of next season i have an old Garmin 100 fish finder https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=133&ra=true and nothing wrong with it, it shows up wrecks great but wisehed to upgrade alittle, nothing super flash just maybe a bigger screen and in colour.

The main reason is when i am fishing in over 320 foot of water i lose the pic, my question is if i purchase a new one will it make any differance? i dont really wish to lift the boat out to fit a new transducer and i fear any new one i would buy would need a new transducer....i have no idea what one is fitted but its at least 10 year old.

Was looking at maybe the Garmin 400c or something abit smaller.
 
northeast1 said:
Speaking of next season i have an old Garmin 100 fish finder https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=133&ra=true and nothing wrong with it, it shows up wrecks great but wisehed to upgrade alittle, nothing super flash just maybe a bigger screen and in colour.

The main reason is when i am fishing in over 320 foot of water i lose the pic, my question is if i purchase a new one will it make any differance? i dont really wish to lift the boat out to fit a new transducer and i fear any new one i would buy would need a new transducer....i have no idea what one is fitted but its at least 10 year old.

Was looking at maybe the Garmin 400c or something abit smaller.
Click to expand...

I don't really know much about fish finders or fishing for that matter, but I do work with lots different types of transducers measuring various parameters on a daily basis. In my experience if you upgrade your monitor then a transducer thats 10 years old would not be fit for purpose, it sounds as the though 320ft is its maximum range and then you lose the signal, so upgrading your monitor would not allow the transducer to detect deeper water. Looks like you will have to upgarde both IMO :confused:
 
Yer i was pritty sure it would mean a new transducer. if that was defo the case then i would not be changing the fish finder as i am not lifting her out next year.

I do get a signal at 320ft its just the detail is very poor, the weck needs to be very big for my to pick it up even on max zoom. Mind i dont often go into 320+ft of water maybe twice a month but its always nice to have one that can read the detail abit better.

My fish finder was standard on the boat and it works a treat just wanted an upgrade, i only use the finder for mapping out wrecks once i map one out and save it i could turn the finder off for the rest of the year unless i wished to visit a new wreck i had not fished before, not many left with in 25 miles in any direction from the Tyne that i have not fished thats for sure :)
 
Hi Rich, If you do go for a new finder, get one with dual transducer settings like 50/200. Once in deep water it is just a matter of switching over to 50mh with a narrower cone angle to punch deeper.
You would not necessarily need to lift the boat out. Go to a caravan shop, buy a couple of large gray suckers that fit on the awning rods, (about £1 each) cut two small pieces of broom shank each about an inch long, glue them in the holes of the suckers, attach a flat piece of marine ply 6" long x4" screwed into the pieces of broom shank, fix the transducer to that, then just press onto transom at water line.
That will work till the next lift out.

Just a thought, have you tried increasing the sensitivity on your Garmin.
 
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It is so old the settings are very basic it is a Garmin 100, i dont have a manual for it and TBH i have not messed around with it much other than the zoom as i only use it our days for marking new wrecks but with the fishing being so poor this year i ahev found myself in the mid 20s from land and that is often between 280 and 350ft that it struggles on.
 
Richie

Why not put the transducer inside and shoot it through the hull, Airmar do propper ones which are top class


Sean
 
i fitted a new transducer at the beggining of the year to go with the lawrence HDS 5's...cracking bits of kit

dunno how it would perform in 300ft + though

the detail is spot on in our max-ish depths...180ft

might be an option when you do eventually lift out

i think ( without a google search ) combo unit about £500 ? this comes with the transducer

and they come in the HDS8

and even better HDS10's

DSC00832.jpg
 
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ditto to all thats been said Rich, YES you would need a new transducer to keep up with the technology of a new set, and yes they are almost all dual frequency so switching over can help.
I wouldn't for one moment consider putting a hole in my dear old bottom :) I always use (as per Sean) a shoot thru hull transducer ( I got 3 now, simply cos I've updated twice :) ) no problem, just sit in a pool of epoxy (after testing in a pool of water) .... they work just fine....

One last thing .... where's the 320+ft deep hole?? after 250-300ft it levels out. We may have stumbled on a few odd patches a little deeper but they are the unusual points, and it doesnt change much after 12 miles.

Highly recommend upgrading to a good quality color sounder with a shoot thru hull transducer ....... (maybe you'll even see the individual fish :) )

all the best Rich

norm
 
This is my Koden sounder marking big sprat shoals round a wreck its on 10 fathom bottom expansion the cod are hurding the sprats together.

killer-june022.jpg


paul.
 
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Cheers for that.

As for fitting into the hull or what would be engine bay i need to do some looking into as my engine bay has no flat surfaces, it is all rounded off features leading down to the sump under the drive shaft. Iw would be very easy to do the wires etc but unsure how i would get a good surface to fit it on and would the signal go through fibre glass then a foam void then fiber glass then the copper paint out the hull??
 
northeast1 said:
Cheers for that.

As for fitting into the hull or what would be engine bay i need to do some looking into as my engine bay has no flat surfaces, it is all rounded off features leading down to the sump under the drive shaft. Iw would be very easy to do the wires etc but unsure how i would get a good surface to fit it on and would the signal go through fibre glass then a foam void then fiber glass then the copper paint out the hull??
Click to expand...

Build a circle with plastercine and fill it with water rich, then stand the transducer in (doesnt need to be flat against surface just sitting in water), then try it out.
If it works then great, go agead (same fasion) but instead of water use slow setting epoxy, slow setting so as to ensure any air bubbles made during the mixing have plenty of time to float out to the top before setting.

norm
 
If you do try a shoot through ducer, it must be only on the fiberglass outer part of the hull, and if there are any air bubbles between the fiberglass and resin when the hull was layered up, the picture will not be at its best. Simple test would be, try through the hull the way Norman has described, then try over the side in the sea to see if there is any improvement in picture quality. If not problem solved, go for the shoot through.
 
Hi.
Another way to fix the transducer to the hull, which enables the transducer to easily be removed is to get a brick size block of closed cell foam. Hollow out the foam to allow the transducer to just fit in. fix the block to hull using epoxy or marine goop. Heat up a jar of vaseilne untill liquid then quarter fill the block, put transducer in, fill the rest. You can cut out another piece of foam to effectivly "make a lid" that just fits in. The vaseline sets hard, holding everything in place.
Used this method on the kayak with excellent readings.

Have you sorted out your flights for Norway yet?
 
Tony found a canny deal online, not booked yet but seems a good price, the trip over is a long one but the trip back is very simple, going that far north to Norway its never a easy trip, the airport looks like the Royal Quays marine tower just older and smaller :)

Cheers for the info lads, i think i will purchase a new fishfinder then for next year but will know doubt be asking a few more questions or for help when it comes to the fitting of it.

I have never been big on "toys" on the boat, as long as things work that does me but this year as i say did highlight the fact a better fishfinder or really i should call it wreck plotter as its the only time i look at the screen with any interest was needed for them 300ft+ marks, steaming 2hrs-2.40mins straight out to groups of wrecks to find a very hard to read picture spelled the end to the old finder for me.

Going to check out a few finders, due to lack of dash space alot will depend on the size and i hate the dual ones so it needs to be a stand alone one.
 
Tell you what the info on the net is unreal for transducers, i was trying to find out what my Garmin 100 200hz transducer would work with what fish finder with out needing to change, so much info.

All i wanted to know was would the standard fit Garmin 100 (not the echo or blue) rated at 200ft thou i had 305ft out of it work with say a slight upgrade to say for example a garmin 160 with 200hz rated at 900ft???

Its a mind dump of info this internet :)
 
Aye, getting up there is a nightmare. i'll probly fly the day before from newcastle via amsterdam and oslo, hotel in alta then off to the ferry on the morning of our holiday.
Travel back the same way all in one day.
 
Think we are driving upto Edinburgh,flying to Oslo for an over night stay then flying to Alta then a 3hr bus ride to the fishing camp, the way back is better no stop off. It is a long trip but i still say you have not cod fished until you have been to Norway and seen what it should still be like here.

Last time it took 16hrs to get there and 13 back but within 40mins of opening the door to our B&B we were out on the boat fishing :)

I think if money is good i will fish Norway every year from now on, i still want to try Soroya but its in the middle of the sea and hard to get too. World record cod, coalie and halibit all landed there within 2 years!!!
 

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