brake blocks
- Thread starter DUCKY
- Start date
Ducky
I was after the clamp for the slosh 30,tried all the local tackle dealers with no luck.I went on the daiwa website and sent them an email telling them what i needed.3 days later they were there,they will send you them through the post and then send you a invoice to pay for them.
I was after the clamp for the slosh 30,tried all the local tackle dealers with no luck.I went on the daiwa website and sent them an email telling them what i needed.3 days later they were there,they will send you them through the post and then send you a invoice to pay for them.
phone I D fishing ask for ronnie
numbr is 0191/2763041 hes helped me a few times in the past he has a lot of second hand parts that other shops do not have
phil185
Well-known member
Just make some- get a biro pen and cut the end of the ink tube, the longer they are the more braking power you will have. Alternatively the middle of a cotton bud works just the same. if you dont want to do this ive probably got some proper brake blocks lying around somewhere, il check when i get in from work.
codseeker
Well-known member
think theres one up scotland
Daiwa Sports Ltd.
Netherton Industrial Estate
Wishaw ML2 0ey
Scotland, U.K
Phone Wishaw:
01698 355723
Fax: 01698 372505
Website:
http://www.daiwasports.co.uk
Email: [email protected]
Daiwa Sports Ltd.
Netherton Industrial Estate
Wishaw ML2 0ey
Scotland, U.K
Phone Wishaw:
01698 355723
Fax: 01698 372505
Website:
http://www.daiwasports.co.uk
Email: [email protected]
Last edited:
The 'sloshes' are the easiest multipliers to maintain. I pop the bearings twice a season and soak them in petrol to remove any dirt or oily residue followed by a wash in warm soapy water , rinse then dry with a hair-drier and then re-oil.
To get the bearings out, you may need to make a 'puller'. This is simply a piece of strong wire with a small 3mm hook at the bottom and a bent handle of some sort at the top.
To access the bearing on the handle side, get some tweezers or fine pliers and remove the fine hexagonal spring clip. Hoy a duster or hanky over the reel when you are doing this 'cos the little bu---er hez a habit of flying away in aall directions. Then simply pull the bearing out
On the 'clicker' end, carefully unscrew the two wee screws holding the brass plate that retains the 'clicker mechanism and bearing and pull the bearng out using the piece of bent wire.
As previously mentioned if you place all the components out in the order in which you took them off, it's foolproof.
Thicker oil will slow things up better than any brake-blocks.
Cheors,
Drof
To get the bearings out, you may need to make a 'puller'. This is simply a piece of strong wire with a small 3mm hook at the bottom and a bent handle of some sort at the top.
To access the bearing on the handle side, get some tweezers or fine pliers and remove the fine hexagonal spring clip. Hoy a duster or hanky over the reel when you are doing this 'cos the little bu---er hez a habit of flying away in aall directions. Then simply pull the bearing out
On the 'clicker' end, carefully unscrew the two wee screws holding the brass plate that retains the 'clicker mechanism and bearing and pull the bearng out using the piece of bent wire.
As previously mentioned if you place all the components out in the order in which you took them off, it's foolproof.
Thicker oil will slow things up better than any brake-blocks.
Cheors,
Drof
Personally, I don't use brake-blocks on any of my multipliers and I find 'Three In One' too thick and gummy. I use a much finer oil and achieve good distances with very few over-runs, but then again, I've used multipliers for decades.
For those who are relatively new to the game, it is worth experimenting with 'blocks' and oils of various viscocity until you come up with the ideal combination for you.
I certainly wouldn't recommend my paticular oil mix unless you have had a great deal of multilplier experience.
Cheeors,
Drof
john/r
Well-known member
hi, done a little bit casting in my time also but still dont claim to be any expert far from it.
i have cast in the past a shimano speedmaster with two blocks 226 yds good for me actualy same day cast 246 with mag3 reel.
also cast a slosh30 225yds with a magged one i done myself.
when i say use blocks as breaks alone use any oil you like thin or whatever this is mho.
what i prefer in break blocks is the fibre type you get from the older abus i swear by these but become harder to obtain definately better breaking qualities than plastic there again imho.
they do come in various sizes but getting hold of them is another thing you may find on ebay or possibly pete coogan.
i have cast in the past a shimano speedmaster with two blocks 226 yds good for me actualy same day cast 246 with mag3 reel.
also cast a slosh30 225yds with a magged one i done myself.
when i say use blocks as breaks alone use any oil you like thin or whatever this is mho.
what i prefer in break blocks is the fibre type you get from the older abus i swear by these but become harder to obtain definately better breaking qualities than plastic there again imho.
they do come in various sizes but getting hold of them is another thing you may find on ebay or possibly pete coogan.
border reiver
Well-known member
As said above the fibre type are the best but I have also used small oval aero beads flattened at the end with a small file too equal effect.
Just thought id share a bit of info .Been having a lot of birdies lately,so i decided to check brake blocks ,when i removed the sideplate of my slosh there where no brakes in sight only a fine red dust where they had disintegrated .What id used was the straw that comes with WD40 cut into two equal lengths , so lesson learnt and ill be sending to daiwa for some of there own genuine ones(obviousley made from a more durable plastic).
