Rig making problems

I've been making my own rigs for quite a while now, and am using the blood loop knot for cheapness instead of crimps - but for the life of me I cant get the blood knot to finish next to my beads.

e.g.

What I want is:

---xO&Ox------

where - is the rig main body, x is the blood knot, O is the bead, and & is the swivel.

What Im ending up with is:

---x--O&Ox------


No matter how hard I try, I cant get the blood loop knot to shift RIGHT next to the bead. Is there something Im not doing ?????
 
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I've been making my own rigs for quite a while now, and am using the blood loop knot for cheapness instead of crimps - but for the life of me I cant get the blood knot to finish next to my beads.

e.g.

What I want is:

---xO&Ox------

where - is the rig main body, x is the blood knot, O is the bead, and & is the swivel.

What Im ending up with is:

---x--O&Ox------


No matter how hard I try, I cant get the blood loop knot to shift RIGHT next to the bead. Is there something Im not doing ?????
are you tying the knots with the same trace body or another line on to the line to make this blood knot???
 
does normal mono not work for stopknots iv tried but never suceeded lol maybe will have to get some power gum
power gum is much better m8 as it stretches like elastic & bites tighter 2 ya main rig body.
i have used mono b4 but better with smler diameter line around 18-20lb but only on snoods as bait stops.
 
just need to get something sorted for using 1 hook so that the worm doesnt slide up my line when i cast. using pennel rigs at the min but in a few month il be going to single hooks or 2 single hooks cliped down a bead and stop knot is what im thinking or gemini tubing stuff:confused:
 
does normal mono not work for stopknots iv tried but never suceeded lol maybe will have to get some power gum

i use stop knots a lot instead of crimps often,i use 12lb mono and tie three stops together that way they dont move but can be moved individualy ie three knots together wont move time consuming to some rigs but safer than crimps.
 
just need to get something sorted for using 1 hook so that the worm doesnt slide up my line when i cast. using pennel rigs at the min but in a few month il be going to single hooks or 2 single hooks cliped down a bead and stop knot is what im thinking or gemini tubing stuff:confused:
tubing is ok m8 but if u have bead then stop knot on ya snood & its clipped down the tubing still slides up in the cast with pressure from the bead, the power gum gets a good hold if when u tie it u pull it tight.
& power gum is cheap as chips & lasts a long time if u just use bits around 2 1/2-3inches.
Drennan Power Gum. * pike fishing tackle * all colours on eBay (end time 05-Jan-11 15:54:26 GMT)
 
You can't beat the coil wire which comes with beads on a square piece of plastic, (can't recall its name right now), but if you change your hook for what ever reason, that means the trace is shorter and now won't reach the clip, just unwind the main line from the half inch wire coil and reset once the new hook is tied on. Simple and totally effective, not so easy with knots or crimps.
 
You can't beat the coil wire which comes with beads on a square piece of plastic, (can't recall its name right now), but if you change your hook for what ever reason, that means the trace is shorter and now won't reach the clip, just unwind the main line from the half inch wire coil and reset once the new hook is tied on. Simple and totally effective, not so easy with knots or crimps.

I think they're the Breakaway Coil Crimps - never tried them myself but they do look effective.

Gary :)
 
You can't beat the coil wire which comes with beads on a square piece of plastic, (can't recall its name right now), but if you change your hook for what ever reason, that means the trace is shorter and now won't reach the clip, just unwind the main line from the half inch wire coil and reset once the new hook is tied on. Simple and totally effective, not so easy with knots or crimps.

Yes you can make rigs adjustable with crimps; just don't crimp them too tight. Just tight enough to hold the hooklength/beads/swivel in place; and then if you need to replace a hook for whatever reason you can slide the crimps down into their new position to suit the shorter hook length.
I've caught fish up to 19 1/2 lbs on rigs made like that and the fish have never made the crimps slide out of position. Even if they did, it's easy to slide them back.
I regularly re-use my main rig bodies and just replace hook lengths, and because the crimps are moveable, I have no problem getting the hooklength correct and fit onto the hook clip/impact shield.
Simplez!!
 
I've done them with crimps myself, but a little too much pressure with the pliers and they're over tight, so just a bit more fiddly. If your nails are short, very difficult to get the crimps to slide.
 
Lets easily fix the problem straight away, just use a pulley rig instead!! No crimps or stop knots to worry about, unless your using an impact shield or possibly cascade swivels.

Suprised nobody picked this up earlier, a dont usually have a brainstorm like this!!:D:D
 
Lets easily fix the problem straight away, just use a pulley rig instead!! No crimps or stop knots to worry about, unless your using an impact shield or possibly cascade swivels.

Suprised nobody picked this up earlier, a dont usually have a brainstorm like this!!:D:D

not everyone likes pully rigs though and unless you get them perfect you put all the pressure on hook snood and hook. i find silicone tubing is the best for cliped down rigs, much easyer to make and if your hook is bent pulling out of a snag or cut off in a fish you can tie a new hook on and slide tubing down to adjust to fit on bait clip.
 
I mainly use crimps now but used to use telephone wire. Strip some phone cable down to get the inner thin wires. Just twist a section of wire around your trace body so you end up with a compact section of about 20mm or so (so it looks like a small spring with the line thru the middle). Slide them upto your beads then twist the tight. The tension of them can be adjusted by tightening the twist right up so its locked solid or untwisting it a bit to allow it to slide under pressure.
Bit of a fanny on to begin with but once you get the knack it only take a few seconds to coil some wire around the trace.
 
not everyone likes pully rigs though and unless you get them perfect you put all the pressure on hook snood and hook. i find silicone tubing is the best for cliped down rigs, much easyer to make and if your hook is bent pulling out of a snag or cut off in a fish you can tie a new hook on and slide tubing down to adjust to fit on bait clip.

Agree 100%. Pulley Rigs are a poor choice of rig for clean to light mixed ground fishing, an old fashioned fixed paternoster rig will give a much better hook up rate. And of course once you move onto different rigs like 2 / 3 hook flappers, wishbones, Portsmouth loop rigs, bomber rigs etc etc then you can't use the pulley principle anyway.

Over time I've graduated from nylon stop knots to crimps and now onto neoprene tubing which IMHO is brilliant for rig making. One slider above the bead / swivel / bead and four below and it's not going anywhere but can still be easily adjusted if necessary. Using the neoprene tubing I can knock up a single clip down paternoster in a couple of minutes and flapper rigs in not much more time. Brilliant stuff.
 
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