To varnish or not to . . . .

[CJS]

Hi chaps, hope the weather is treating you as well as it is us in East Anglia.

I have a question. Just got the new boat, 35ft beast of a thing. About what I expected, loads of cosmetic work, plus a few, iritating head scratchers, and half the instruments dont work, 20 years old and all that!

Its the wood around the gunwals I need advise on. just now, There is a lot of it, 35ft x 2, plus 11 foot at the transom, all made up of three planks 6\"x1\" Iroko (I think) could be teak? There is loads of varnished wood in the cabin, thats definatly Iroko.

The previous owner has let it go, all the varnish has gone, and the wood has oxidised to grey. It desperatly needs treating, do I varnish with my favorite French \"La tonk\". realy special stuff but expensive and it needs six coats from bear wood to do a propper job. Or as someone has sugested oil it like teak (if its Iroko)

1 whats the best way to get back to new wood? heard there was stripper that did the job. (acid type srtipper . . . . !)

2 If oil can be used, any sugestion on a good brand?

3 Or is it the hard graft, draw scraper and six coats?

Thanks guys Cliff Stone :yltype:

 

[Norman]

Hi Cliff
Old favourite of mine this .............. hard work (at first then easier if kept on top of) always got to be teak oil on top of a sanded surface.
I do mune about 2 or 3 times a year, simply an hour or maybe 2 but it certainly pays off. Dress with an orbital black an decker type orbital sander coarse , med then fine sandpaper. Rub in teak oil (available all chandelry shops). I usually put three coats on as soon as I`ve dressed it , its only seconds to rub the oil in on a cloth, then a coat each visit to the boat for the next three or four times. Oil dries in in about 30mins so is not a problem.


Beginning a session after rain, wind, birds and snagged lines have been at the wood

Then a good sanding down

Finishing off with decent fine sandpaper

Then, the final result after being oiled up

Good luck Cliff

 

[MikeR]

Looks well that Norman!

 

[Norman]

cheers Mike, the weather and the fishing gets to it a lot so you have to keep on top, as I say about 2 or three times a year, but for an hour or two`s work it`s worth it. There are more long lasting solutions like some of the deep varnishes, but I prefer the oil look, its a lot more natural

 

[CJS]

Norman, thats the reson I am looking at it, preperation is the same, but aplication and after care seems a lot less intense, and no tears when some \'dumb nut knocks it\' (usualy me with a lead!), no chipped varnish, just natural wood. Will this be Ok on Iroko? teak is a naturaly oily wood.
Thanks, Cliff, :yltype:

PS, had someone sugest a nut oli bassed preperation, any ideas?

 

[DaveMason]

I done the same on mine mine Cliff , came up lovely .

 

[Norman]

Since theres not a hard varnish skin then no matter what damage it gets it springs back and is easily taken out on next sanding